There are such a lot of walks and tramps in New Zealand on my record that I haven’t had an opportunity to take a look at. And regardless of how a lot I get out and sort out them, the record solely grows longer. Humorous how that occurs.
However there may be one monitor I’ve been desirous to do perpetually, the Heaphy Observe. New Zealand has ten Nice Walks, together with the Heaphy, and I’ve principally carried out all of them, some even just a few instances. Nice Walks have higher infrastructure than our regular backcountry tramps – in addition they include greater value tags and e book out quick. Larger, fancier huts with wardens. Some even have flushing bogs (!!!). Vast and better-maintained trails, and for a few of them, you’ll be able to select guided choices.
Whereas kiwis satisfaction themselves on being powerful and low cost with regards to tramping (no arguing), there’s something nice about simpler tracks. I’ve carried out my fair proportion of slogging by frigid rivers, climbing tree roots and scrambling up dodgy rocks, and even strolling in knee-deep mud (f*ck that). I’m fairly positive the motto right here is, “Why construct a pleasant switchback path when you’ll be able to simply climb straight up the mountain?”
However I’m gonna be trustworthy: I really like an opportunity NOT to make use of my fingers when tramping, hanging on for expensive life, and praying to no matter god is on the market that torture ends quickly. I actually don’t care about being hardcore.
When you gained’t see many kiwis on the favored Nice Walks, it was all locals once I did the Heaphy Observe in Could this 12 months. From Could 1st, our autumn, the monitor opens to mountain bikers. At an 84-kilometer tramp, it’s the longest Nice Stroll (minus canoeing the Whanganui River), and I’ll argue it’s the most effective.
So why did I put it off for therefore lengthy? As a result of the beginning and end of the monitor are a seven-hour drive aside. I couldn’t work out the logistics, particularly as I favor to tramp alone. The beginning on the West Coast is a ten-hour drive from Wānaka, too. It’s fairly a dedication, and it might be practically $500 to relocate my automotive, on prime of gas: it at the moment prices me $175 to refill my little automotive right here. NOPE.
However then I discussed to a pal that I used to be eager to sort out the Heaphy this 12 months, they usually informed me about Golden Bay Air as the most effective logistics possibility. Seems left to proper, how did I not find out about this? You’ll be able to fly in between the beginning and end, they usually do numerous shuttles. They’ve streamlined the method of organizing the tramp, and it’s inexpensive. It’ll prevent 450 kilometers of driving. Depend. Me. In.
How I organized my logistics with Golden Bay Air:
- I drove from Wanaka to Westport in a day and stayed in a motel that night time
- The subsequent morning, I drove north, and I dropped a bag of unpolluted garments and toiletries on the tiny airport in Karamea
- Then I drove quarter-hour to the beginning of the monitor on the West Coast facet
- I parked my automotive on the Kōhaihai campsite, which is the place the monitor begins
- Over the following 4 days, I walked the Heaphy Observe
- I stayed in these huts so as:
- Day 1 – Heaphy Hut
- Day 2 – James Mackay Hut
- Day 3 – Perry Saddle Hut
- I met the Golden Bay Air automotive shuttle pick-up on the finish of the monitor at Brown Hut to go to Takaka airport
- I grabbed my rent automotive and my different bag from the Takaka airport
- I stayed in Takaka for 3 nights to discover Golden Bay
- I returned to the Takaka airport to return the rent automotive and catch my brief flight again to the Karamea airport
- Then, the shuttle introduced us again to the beginning of the monitor at Kōhaihai, the place I left my automotive
- Then drove again to Wanaka
**This appears to be like like lots, however principally, whenever you e book with Golden Bay Air, they cowl all of those companies, so the method is streamlined, and the timings all line up, so that you don’t have to attend round. And for these of you studying from abroad, the Karamea and Takaka airports are tiny, the dimensions of a room; they’re extra like an airstrip, not for bigger industrial jets. There’s no queuing or something.
I made a decision to stroll the Heaphy Observe from the Karamea/West Coast facet north to Takaka. Most individuals do it the opposite method, however it doesn’t matter. I don’t suppose it’s tougher in both route. Karamea is simply nearer to me to drive to than Takaka.
My GPS informed me that the monitor was 84 kilometers lengthy, and it was principally evenly break up over the 4 days, often 16-25 kilometers per day. For me, it actually wasn’t that arduous. I believed the times can be for much longer than I believed – every day took me round 4 to 5 hours. The most effective half, although, is the monitor feels flat. Should you take a look at DOC’s elevation profile, it appears to be like daunting. You’re climbing to 1,000 meters however over 20 kilometers. It’s so gradual you don’t discover the incline a lot.
I seen my again was just a little extra sore than regular as a result of I had a heavier pack, bringing my digicam and extra meals than on shorter tramps. So don’t be postpone by the 20-kilometer days—they had been straightforward, the monitor appears flat, there are not any steps besides onto bridges (bear in mind folks bike it), and it’s effectively maintained. You may also make it longer by staying at a number of the smaller huts.
You’ll be able to drink the water alongside the monitor too – it’s stained brown from tannins from leaf matter. It’s completely superb to drink and tastes higher than my faucet water.
I made a decision to sort out the Heaphy Observe within the autumn. It doesn’t have the avalanche hazard that the extra mountainous Nice Walks have, making it a monitor you possibly can sort out all 12 months lengthy. Although I think about it may very well be disagreeable and chilly in winter, I reckon you’d most likely have the monitor all to your self!
Additionally, I’m conscious that many individuals suppose it’s bizarre that I really like tramping alone and that I discover the concept of being the one one on the monitor AMAZING. I’m an introvert. I usually hate folks. I can’t assist it.
I’ll use this chance to emphasise simply how essential it’s to put together accordingly and carry a Private Locator Beacon (PLB), which you’ll be able to hire if you happen to don’t personal one. That is what you set off when you have a life-threatening damage or are at risk of significant damage or lack of life. Belief me, Search and Rescue would reasonably come and discover you along with your GPS location from the PLB than have to start out trying to find our bodies.
There’s additionally the chance of flooding, which suggests you might need to remain longer on the monitor. There are numerous huts and several other emergency shelters. Deliver further meals. I at all times convey further meals.
The biodiversity struck me as the most effective a part of the Heaphy Observe. It’s unimaginable, and I’d even say it’s a number of the greatest I’ve seen tramping. The landscapes are unimaginable and assorted. The West Coast is inexperienced and humid, the path meandering alongside the rugged shoreline shrouded in nikau palms. Then you definately head by some unimaginable forest earlier than climbing up into crimson tussock nation. It was colourful. It was lovely.
I noticed kiwi, tūī, bellbirds, a fernbird (!!), whio, weka, kererū, robins, riflemen and so many extra. You’ll be able to inform there was a lot predator management within the space to guard it; the birdlife was wonderful. It’s additionally the place yow will discover the most important carnivorous snails—Powelliphanta snails. What the heck? I vaguely knew this, however name me intrigued. I looked for them so exhausting, however I solely discovered three shells. One of many DOC rangers informed me it’s exhausting to search out them alive.
And the queen of birds to see alongside the Heaphy Observe: the takahē. And I didn’t see one; cue tears. It wasn’t like I didn’t attempt guys. Takahē can poo as much as 9 meters per day. You wager your ass I adopted these poo trails all by the bush across the monitor for ages. However nada. Different folks did see them, which makes me pleased. Whereas I used to be there, some had been hanging round Saxon Hut at sundown.
I’ve been privileged to have seen takahē many instances in ecosanctuaries and at their breeding facility, however by no means within the wild. I suppose that simply means I’ve to return.
Takahē are a badass, massive, hefty blue chook that was as soon as declared extinct for 50 years. Not many creatures can boast about getting back from the useless.
Geoffrey Orbell, a doctor, discovered a wild inhabitants of takahē within the Murchison Mountains by Te Anau in 1948. These days, with numerous exhausting work in conservation, there are about 500 takahē in New Zealand. Many are in predator-free ecosanctuaries and islands (record right here). There nonetheless is a inhabitants within the Murchisons, however it’s not likely accessible to the general public. I’ve been making an attempt to weasel my method up there for years unsuccessfully, pun meant. I do know it ruins a joke to clarify it, however weasels are mustelids, like stoats, that are one of many worst launched predators in New Zealand. The truth is, in 2007, stoats managed to kill half the takahē there. Furry monsters.
However what made Kahurangi Nationwide Park significantly particular was the discharge of the second wild inhabitants of takahē in 2018. This huge milestone brings us one step nearer to restoring our land, birds, and different creatures to what it as soon as was like.
Many due to Golden Bay Air for organizing all the logistics to make this doable. As at all times, I’m retaining it actual—all opinions are my very own, as if you happen to might anticipate much less from me.